But Arctics Can Be Inhospitable, Too

           Stapiisavillageconsistingofaboutthirtyhuts,builtoflava,atthesouthsideofthebaseofthevolcano.Itextendsalongtheinneredgeofasmallfiord,inclosedbetweenbasalticwallsofthestrangestconstruction.

           Basaltisabrownishrockofigneousorigin.Itassumesregularforms,thearrangementofwhichisoftenverysurprising.Herenaturehaddoneherworkgeometrically,withsquareandcompassandplummet.Everywhereelseherartconsistsaloneinthrowingdownhugemassestogetherindisorder.Youseeconesimperfectlyformed,irregularpyramids,withafantasticdisarrangementoflines;buthere,asiftoexhibitanexampleofregularity,thoughinadvanceoftheveryearliestarchitects,shehascreatedaseverelysimpleorderofarchitecture,neversurpassedeitherbythesplendoursofBabylonorthewondersofGreece.

           IhadheardoftheGiant’sCausewayinIreland,andFingal’sCaveinStaffa,oneoftheHebrides;butIhadneveryetseenabasalticformation.

           AtStapiIbeheldthisphenomenoninallitsbeauty.

           Thewallthatconfinedthefiord,likeallthecoastofthepeninsula,wascomposedofaseriesofverticalcolumnsthirtyfeethigh.Thesestraightshafts,offairproportions,supportedanarchitraveofhorizontalslabs,theoverhangingportionofwhichformedasemi-archoverthesea.At.intervals,underthisnaturalshelter,therespreadoutvaultedentrancesinbeautifulcurves,intowhichthewavescamedashingwithfoamandspray.Afewshaftsofbasalt,tornfromtheirholdbythefuryoftempests,layalongthesoillikeremainsofanancienttemple,inruinsforeverfresh,andoverwhichcenturiespassedwithoutleavingatraceofageuponthem.

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