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Hospitality Under the Arctic Circle

           animmensetorrent,onceliquid,nowsolid,ranfromthenearestmountains,nowextinctvolcanoes,buttheruinsaroundrevealedtheviolenceofthepasteruptions.Yethereandtherewereafewjetsofsteamfromhotsprings.

           Wehadnotimetowatchthesephenomena;wehadtoproceedonourway.Soonatthefootofthemountainstheboggylandreappeared,intersectedbylittlelakes.Ourroutenowlaywestward;wehadturnedthegreatbayofFaxa,andthetwinpeaksofSnæfellrosewhiteintothecloudyskyatthedistanceofatleastfivemiles.

           Thehorsesdidtheirdutywell,nodifficultiesstoppedthemintheirsteadycareer.Iwasgettingtired;butmyunclewasasfirmandstraightashewasatourfirststart.Icouldnothelpadmiringhispersistency,aswellasthehunter’s,whotreatedourexpeditionlikeamerepromenade.

           June20.Atsixp.m.wereachedBüdir,avillageontheseashore;andtheguidethereclaiminghisdue,myunclesettledwithhim.ItwasHans’ownfamily,thatis,hisunclesandcousins,whogaveushospitality;wewerekindlyreceived,andwithouttaxingtoomuchthegoodnessofthesefolks,Iwouldwillinglyhavetarriedheretorecruitaftermyfatigues.Butmyuncle,whowantednorecruiting,wouldnothearofit,andthenextmorningwehadtobestrideourbeastsagain.

           Thesoiltoldoftheneighbourhoodofthemountain,whosegranitefoundationsrosefromtheearthliketheknottedrootsofsomehugeoak.Wewereroundingtheimmensebaseofthevolcano.TheProfessorhardlytookhiseyesoffit.Hetosseduphisarmsandseemedtodefyit,andtodeclare,"TherestandsthegiantthatIshallconquer."Afteraboutfourhours’walkingthehorsesstoppedoftheirownaccordatthedoorofthepriest’shouseatStapi.

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