Кораловий острів

Chapter 25

           Buttheretheygo!"

           Ashespoke,severalhundredsofthenatives,amongstwhomwewerenowstanding,utteredaloudyell,rusheddownthebeach,plungedintothesurf,andwerecarriedoffbytheseethingfoamoftheretreatingwave.

           Atthepointwherewestood,theencirclingcoralreefjoinedtheshore,sothatthemagnificentbreakers,whicharecentstiffbreezehadrenderedlargerthanusual,fellinthunderatthefeetofthemultitudeswholinedthebeach.Forsometimetheswimmerscontinuedtostrikeouttosea,breastingovertheswelllikehundredsofblackseals.Thentheyallturned,andwatchinganapproachingbillow,mounteditswhitecrest,andeachlayinghisbreastontheshort,flatboard,camerollingtowardstheshore,careeringonthesummitofthemightywave,whiletheyandtheonlookersshoutedandyelledwithexcitement.Justasthemonsterwavecurledinsolemnmajestytoflingitsbulkylengthuponthebeach,mostoftheswimmersslidbackintothetroughbehind;others,slippingofftheirboards,seizedthemintheirhands,andplungingthroughthewaterywaste,swamouttorepeattheamusement;butafew,whoseemedtomethemostreckless,continuedtheircareeruntiltheywerelauncheduponthebeachandenvelopedinthechurningfoamandspray.Oneoftheselastcameinonthecrestofthewavemostmanfully,andlandedwithaviolentboundalmostonthespotwhereBillandIstood.Isawbyhispeculiarhead-dressthathewasthechiefwhomthetribeentertainedastheirguest.

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