Кораловий острів

Chapter 25

           Butasthisisanamusementinwhichallengage,fromchildrenoftentogrey-headedmenofsixty,andasIhadanopportunityofwitnessingitinperfectionthedayfollowing,Ishalldescribeitmoreminutely.

           Isupposeitwasinhonouroftheirguestthatthisgrandswimming-matchwasgotup,forRomatacameandtoldthecaptainthattheyweregoingtoengageinit,andbeggedhimto"comeandsee."

           "Whatsortofamusementisthissurf-swimming?"IinquiredofBillaswewalkedtogethertoapartoftheshoreonwhichseveralthousandsofthenativeswereassembled.

           "It’saveryfavouritelarkwiththese‘xtr’or’narycritters,"repliedBill,givingaturntothequidoftobaccothatinvariablybulgedoutofhisleftcheek."Yesee,Ralph,themfellowstaketothewaterassoona’mostastheycanwalk,an’longbeforetheycandothatanythingrespectably,sothattheyareasmuchathomeintheseaasontheland.Well,yesee,I‘sposetheyfoundswimmin’formilesouttosea,anddivin’fathomsdeep,wasn’texcitin’enough,sotheyinventedthisgameo’swimmin’onthesurf.Eachmanandboy,asyousee,hasgotashortboardorplank,withwhichheswimsoutforamileormoretosea,andthen,gettin’onthetopo’yonthunderin’breaker,theycometoshoreonthetopofit,yellin’andscreechin’likefiends.It’samarveltomethatthey’renotdashedtoshiversonthecoralreef,forsurean’sart’inamIthatifanyo’ustriedit,wewouldn’tbeworththeflukeofabrokenanchorafterthewavefell.

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