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Chapter 18

           Wesawmanyruinedcastlesstandingontheedgesofprecipices,surroundedbyblackwoods,highandinaccessible.ThispartoftheRhine,indeed,presentsasingularlyvariegatedlandscape.Inonespotyouviewruggedhills,ruinedcastlesoverlookingtremendousprecipices,withthedarkRhinerushingbeneath;andonthesuddenturnofapromontory,flourishingvineyardswithgreenslopingbanksandameanderingriverandpopuloustownsoccupythescene.

           Wetravelledatthetimeofthevintageandheardthesongofthelabourersasweglideddownthestream.EvenI,depressedinmind,andmyspiritscontinuallyagitatedbygloomyfeelings,evenIwaspleased.Ilayatthebottomoftheboat,andasIgazedonthecloudlessbluesky,IseemedtodrinkinatranquillitytowhichIhadlongbeenastranger.Andiftheseweremysensations,whocandescribethoseofHenry?Hefeltasifhehadbeentransportedtofairy-landandenjoyedahappinessseldomtastedbyman."Ihaveseen,"hesaid,"themostbeautifulscenesofmyowncountry;IhavevisitedthelakesofLucerneandUri,wherethesnowymountainsdescendalmostperpendicularlytothewater,castingblackandimpenetrableshades,whichwouldcauseagloomyandmournfulappearancewereitnotforthemostverdantislandsthatbelievetheeyebytheirgayappearance;Ihaveseenthislakeagitatedbyatempest,whenthewindtoreupwhirlwindsofwaterandgaveyouanideaofwhatthewater-spoutmustbeonthegreatocean;andthewavesdashwithfurythebaseofthemountain,wherethepriestandhismistresswereoverwhelmedbyanavalancheandwheretheirdyingvoicesarestillsaidtobeheardamidthepausesofthenightlywind;IhaveseenthemountainsofLaValais,andthePaysdeVaud;butthiscountry,Victor,pleasesmemorethanallthosewonders.ThemountainsofSwitzerlandaremoremajesticandstrange,butthereisacharminthebanksofthisdivineriverthatIneverbeforesawequalled.

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