Chapter 50

           NeartothatpartoftheThamesonwhichthechurchatRotherhitheabuts,wherethebuildingsonthebanksaredirtiestandthevesselsontheriverblackestwiththedustofcolliersandthesmokeofclose-builtlow-roofedhouses,thereexiststhefilthiest,thestrangest,themostextraordinaryofthemanylocalitiesthatarehiddeninLondon,whollyunknown,evenbyname,tothegreatmassofitsinhabitants.

           Toreachthisplace,thevisitorhastopenetratethroughamazeofclose,narrow,andmuddystreets,throngedbytherougestandpoorestofwatersidepeople,anddevotedtothetraffictheymaybesupposedtooccasion.Thecheapestandleastdelicateprovisionsareheapedintheshops;thecoarsestandcommonestarticlesofwearingappareldangleatthesalesman’sdoor,andstreamfromthehouse-parapetandwindows.Jostlingwithunemployedlabourersofthelowestclass,ballast-heavers,coal-whippers,brazenwomen,raggedchildren,andtheraffandrefuseoftheriver,hemakeshiswaywithdifficultyalong,assailedbyoffensivesightsandsmellsfromthenarrowalleyswhichbranchoffontherightandleft,anddeafenedbytheclashofponderouswaggonsthatbeargreatpilesofmerchandisefromthestacksofwarehousesthatrisefromeverycorner.

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