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Return to England

           WhenwecametoPampelunaitself,wefounditsoindeed; andtome,thathadbeenalwaysusedtoahotclimate,andindeedtocountrieswherewecouldscarcebearanyclotheson,thecoldwasinsufferable; norindeedwasitmorepainfulthanitwassurprisingtocomebutoftendaysbeforeoutoftheoldCastile, wheretheweatherwasnotonlywarm,butveryhot,andimmediatelytofeelawindfromthePyreneanmountainssoverykeen,soseverelycold,astobeintolerable,andtoendangerbenumbingandperishingofourfingersandtoes. 

           PoorFridaywasreallyfrightenedwhenhesawthemountainsallcoveredwithsnow,andfeltcoldweather,whichhehadneverseenorfeltbeforeinhislife. 

           Tomendthematter,whenwecametoPampelunaitcontinuedsnowingwithsomuchviolence,andsolong,thatthepeoplesaidwinterwascomebeforeitstime; andtheroads,whichweredifficultbefore,werenowquiteimpassable; for,inaword,thesnowlayinsomeplacestoothickforustotravel,andbeingnothardfrozen,asisthecaseinnortherncountries,therewasnogoingwithoutbeingindangerofbeingburiedaliveeverystep. WestayednolessthantwentydaysatPampeluna;whenseeingthewintercomingon,andnolikelihoodofitsbeingbetter,foritwastheseverestwinteralloverEuropethathadbeenknowninthememoryofman,IproposedthatweshouldallgoawaytoFontarabia,andtheretakeshippingforwhichwasaverylittlevoyage. 

           Butwhilewewereconsideringthis,therecameinfourFrenchgentlemen,whohavingbeenstoppedontheFrenchsideofthepasses,aswewereontheSpanish,hadfoundoutaguide,who,traversingthecountryneartheheadofLanguedoc,hadbroughtthemoverthemountainsbysuchwaysthattheywerenotmuchincommodedbythesnow; andweretheymetwithsnowinanyquantity,theysaiditwasfrozenhardenoughtobearthemandtheirhorses. 

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