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Chapter 18
Wallingford,sixmilesaboveStreatley,isaveryancienttown,andhasbeenanactivecentreforthemakingofEnglishhistory. Itwasarude,mud-builttowninthetimeoftheBritons,whosquattedthere,untiltheRomanlegionsevictedthem;andreplacedtheirclay-bakedwallsbymightyfortifications,thetraceofwhichTimehasnotyetsucceededinsweepingaway,sowellthoseold-worldmasonsknewhowtobuild.
ButTime,thoughhehaltedatRomanwalls,sooncrumbledRomanstodust;andontheground,inlateryears,foughtsavageSaxonsandhugeDanes,untiltheNormanscame.
ItwasawalledandfortifiedtownuptothetimeoftheParliamentaryWar,whenitsufferedalongandbittersiegefromFairfax. Itfellatlast,andthenthewallswererazed.
FromWallingforduptoDorchestertheneighbourhoodoftherivergrowsmorehilly,varied,andpicturesque. Dorchesterstandshalfamilefromtheriver. ItcanbereachedbypaddlinguptheThame,ifyouhaveasmallboat;butthebestwayistoleavetheriveratDay’sLock,andtakeawalkacrossthefields. Dorchesterisadelightfullypeacefuloldplace,nestlinginstillnessandsilenceanddrowsiness.
Dorchester,likeWallingford,wasacityinancientBritishtimes;itwasthencalledCaerDoren,"thecityonthewater." InmorerecenttimestheRomansformedagreatcamphere,thefortificationssurroundingwhichnowseemlikelow,evenhills. InSaxondaysitwasthecapitalofWessex. Itisveryold,anditwasverystrongandgreatonce. Nowitsitsasidefromthestirringworld,andnodsanddreams.