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Chapter 15

           ButtheseHighlandbeggarsstoodontheirdignity,askedalmsonlytobuysnuff(bytheiraccount)andwouldgivenochange.

           Tobesure,thiswasnoconcernofmine,exceptinsofarasitentertainedmebytheway.Whatwasmuchmoretothepurpose,fewhadanyEnglish,andthesefew(unlesstheywereofthebrotherhoodofbeggars)notveryanxioustoplaceitatmyservice.IknewTorosaytobemydestination,andrepeatedthenametothemandpointed;butinsteadofsimplypointinginreply,theywouldgivemeascreedoftheGaelicthatsetmefoolish;soitwassmallwonderifIwentoutofmyroadasoftenasIstayedinit.

           Atlast,abouteightatnight,andalreadyveryweary,Icametoalonehouse,whereIaskedadmittance,andwasrefused,untilIbethoughtmeofthepowerofmoneyinsopooracountry,andhelduponeofmyguineasinmyfingerandthumb.Thereupon,themanofthehouse,whohadhithertopretendedtohavenoEnglish,anddrivenmefromhisdoorbysignals,suddenlybegantospeakasclearlyaswasneedful,andagreedforfiveshillingstogivemeanight’slodgingandguidemethenextdaytoTorosay.

           Isleptuneasilythatnight,fearingIshouldberobbed;butImighthavesparedmyselfthepain;formyhostwasnorobber,onlymiserablypoorandagreatcheat.Hewasnotaloneinhispoverty;forthenextmorning,wemustgofivemilesabouttothehouseofwhathecalledarichmantohaveoneofmyguineaschanged.

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