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Chapter 18
Wehadfinishedbreakfast,andwerethroughCliftonLockbyhalf-pasteight.
FromCliftontoCulhamtheriverbanksareflat,monotonous,anduninteresting,but,afteryougetthroughCulhalmLock—thecoldestanddeepestlockontheriver—thelandscapeimproves.
AtAbingdon,theriverpassesbythestreets. Abingdonisatypicalcountrytownofthesmallerorder—quiet,eminentlyrespectable,clean,anddesperatelydull. Itpridesitselfonbeingold,butwhetheritcancompareinthisrespectwithWallingfordandDorchesterseemsdoubtful. Afamousabbeystoodhereonce,andwithinwhatisleftofitssanctifiedwallstheybrewbitteralenowadays.
InSt.NicholasChurch,atAbingdon,thereisamonumenttoJohnBlackwallandhiswifeJane,whoboth,afterleadingahappymarriedlife,diedontheverysameday,August21,1625; andinSt.Helen’sChurch,itisrecordedthatW.Lee,whodiedin1637,"hadinhislifetimeissuefromhisloinstwohundredlackingbutthree." IfyouworkthisoutyouwillfindthatMr.W.Lee’sfamilynumberedonehundredandninety-seven. Mr.W.Lee—fivetimesMayorofAbingdon—was,nodoubt,abenefactortohisgeneration,butIhopetherearenotmanyofhiskindaboutinthisovercrowdednineteenthcentury.
FromAbingdontoNunehamCourteneyisalovelystretch. NunehamParkiswellworthavisit. ItcanbeviewedonTuesdaysandThursdays. Thehousecontainsafinecollectionofpicturesandcuriosities,andthegroundsareverybeautiful.