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Iceland! But what Next?

           BetweenthelittlelakeandthetownthechurchisbuiltintheProtestantstyle,ofcalcinedstonesextractedoutofthevolcanoesbytheirownlabourandattheirownexpense;inhighwesterlywindsitwasmanifestthattheredtilesoftheroofwouldbescatteredintheair,tothegreatdangerofthefaithfulworshippers.

           OnaneighbouringhillIperceivedthenationalschool,where,asIwasinformedlaterbyourhost,weretaughtHebrew,English,French,andDanish,fourlanguagesofwhich,withshameIconfessit,Idon’tknowasingleword;afteranexaminationIshouldhavehadtostandlastofthefortyscholarseducatedatthislittlecollege,andIshouldhavebeenheldunworthytosleepalongwiththeminoneofthoselittledoubleclosets,wheremoredelicateyouthswouldhavediedofsuffocationtheveryfirstnight.

           InthreehoursIhadseennotonlythetownbutitsenvirons.Thegeneralaspectwaswonderfullydull.Notrees,andscarcelyanyvegetation.Everywherebarerocks,signsofvolcanicaction.TheIcelandicbutsaremadeofearthandturf,andthewallsslopeinward;theyratherresembleroofsplacedontheground.Butthentheseroofsaremeadowsofcomparativefertility.Thankstotheinternalheat,thegrassgrowsonthemtosomedegreeofperfection.Itiscarefullymowninthehayseason;ifitwerenot,thehorseswouldcometopastureonthesegreenabodes.

           InmyexcursionImetbutfewpeople.OnreturningtothemainstreetIfoundthegreaterpartofthepopulationbusiedindrying,salting,andputtingonboardcodfish,theirchiefexport.Themenlookedlikerobustbutheavy,blondGermanswithpensiveeyes,consciousofbeingfarremovedfromtheirfellowcreatures,poorexilesrelegatedtothislandofice,poorcreatureswhoshouldhavebeenEsquimaux,sincenaturehadcondemnedthemtoliveonlyjustoutsidethearcticcircle!

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